Professional Dog Walking and Pet Sitting Services

When is your pet considered a “senior”?

Different sources vary on this, but according to the American Veterinarian Medical Association, by age two, most pets have already reached adulthood. By age five, they are considered middle age, and at the age of seven, they’ve started their senior years. Dogs, especially the larger breeds, begin the aging process a lot sooner, and should be treated as a senior after reaching three-four years of age. Remember, all pets age differently, so there is no set age that your pet is a senior.

Veterinarians suggest that supplements and vitamins can be served at any age, and provide an easily digestible, highly palatable diet addition to the regular diet. Giant dog breeds that are seniors will benefit from receiving supplements/vitamins at three years of age, while smaller senior dogs will benefit if supplements/vitamins are added at age five. Supplements/Vitamins can benefit senior cats at seven years of age.

2. Make quick checks a daily routine

Check your pet’s teeth for loose or missing teeth, bad breath and inflamed gums. Brush your pet’s coat regularly to stimulate the skin and remove loose hair. Check for lumps that might have formed since the last brushing. Pay attention to your pet’s movements. If he or she is getting up slower, or limping, notify your vet.

3. Seniors need high quality, easily digestible food and plenty of fresh water

Nutrition is of utmost importance! Older pets may experience a loss of appetite, and they need the correct balance of protein and nutrition in order to help maintain their best possible health and weight. Diets can treat disease or metabolic conditions, but they can include prescription diets that may not be highly palatable.

Some supplements/vitamins products are pleasant-tasting enhancers that will not greatly affect the diet to which they are being added. For animals that refuse to eat or cannot eat solid foods, the Sure products, by PetAg provide a complete balanced diet that has been carefully formulated to provide high quality protein, resulting in the animal maintaining more body mass and healthy immune and enzyme systems.

4. Watch your pet’s waistline!

Reportedly, 25 percent of pets in the U.S. are overweight. Obesity leads to many health-threatening conditions that can lead to shorter life spans. Adverse affects common in older, overweight pets include an increased risk of developing diabetes and cardiovascular disease, and decreased immune competence. Metabolism in dogs drops by up to 30 percent, and that drop in metabolism contributes to pet weight problems.

5. Schedule veterinarian visits at least twice a year

Remember, pets age faster than humans, so a visit to the vet once a year is like visiting your doctor or dentist once every seven years. Make sure that your pet’s vaccinations are updated on a regular schedule since seniors’ immune systems are not as competent as when they were younger.

6. Vitamins and minerals should suit aging bodies and metabolisms

Adjusting these elements to fit the needs of senior animals can improve their overall health. For instance, as animals age there is a decreased need for calcium and phosphorus. If reduced, there is less stress to eliminate from the body. Additionally, an increased need for vitamins results in improved health, body function and immunity. Like humans, the benefits of an increased supply of antioxidants helps to decrease free radicals present that can have an effect on a number of body systems.

7. Adjust levels of exercise

While obesity can be treated with a combination of exercise and diet, older pets may have ailments, such as painful arthritis, that are aggravated by extensive exercise. Be watchful and alert to these conditions. Products with glucosamine and chondroitin have been shown to help ease a pet’s discomfort. One product available is Grand Meadows’ grand mobility with glucosamine.

8. Older cats are more sensitive to noise

As cats age, they may become more sensitive to noise and fearful of loud noises, especially if they’re arthritic. Try to provide older cats a quiet place to hide or rest comfortably. They also may need a larger bed to sleep in because they cannot curl up into a tight ball any longer.

9. Give your pet a massage

Older pets like and benefit from a soft, full body massage. This may help the pet relax while you have another chance to check for lumps.

10. Give your pet a warm place to sleep

As animals age they become more sensitive to cold. Provide them with a soft comfortable bed in a warm, draft-free area away from foot traffic. Both cats and dogs will appreciate being able to be warm and comfortable. Warm outerwear further protects dogs that must go outdoors during cold weather months.

We hope that you have found this guide to be of help to you and your “best friend”!

Posted with permission: Alex Royal

As dog owners we often promote the wrong habits in our dogs. Bad habits remain as bad habits if they are not corrected. A dog that is allowed to jump up on you because he is a puppy will not understand why he is not allowed to jump up on people when he is a larger adult dog. Establish rules and limits today designed for tomorrow.

A dog jumping up on someone can be a safety issue. A large dog jumping on an elderly person or young child is especially dangerous. It is not your dog’s intent to hurt anyone when jumping up. He simply sees it as a way to greet people because it was allowed when he was a puppy.

One way to teach your dog not to jump up is to position your arms in front of your body. This will keep your dog from completing his jump. Follow this action with a stern vocal NO then immediately turn your back on your dog. Don’t allow your dog to make eye contact with you. When your dog has calmed down reengage him and enthusiastically praise him for being calm. Your dog is always seeking your attention and love. By rejecting your dog in this manner you are giving him the opposite reaction that he desires. Within a dog pack the alpha leader communicates his displeasure by correcting inappropriate behavior.

As you interact with your dog you must exhibit alpha leader qualities at all times. You dog needs limitations and controls. He wants to be a responsible member of your family and is happy when complying with the expectations of his alpha leader.

When you have been away from home for several hours your dog is excited to see you and will often jump up to greet you. To prevent this behavior don’t greet your dog immediately upon your arrival home. You should wait 10 to 15 minutes before greeting him. Until your dog is used to this procedure you may have to put him in another room for 10 minutes or more. It is important to greet your dog with enthusiasm after this calming down period.

You must be consistent in teaching your dog new behavior. Being consistent is a major part of dog training.

It is important to reward your dog’s positive actions while ignoring his negative actions. When you have to reprimand your dog for negative behavior make sure you take the opportunity to praise him for a positive action. Your final communication with your dog should be loving, enthusiastic praise.

Train a puppy is much easier than retraining a full grown dog. The training technique is the same but the physical effort to stop or control an adult dog is greater. Dog training will be an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog, no matter the age of your dog, if you are consistent with your training.

WHY MUST DOGS BARK?!! And yes, I sure do understand that the sound of a barking dog is anything but pleasant!. However, there is something we need to keep in mind and that is…..Barking is our best friends way of communicating by alarming us, or his or her “pack” that something just isn’t right. Then there is of coarse behavior problems that incorporate excessive barking that is out of control.

Why does my dark need to bark every time he see’s another dog? Why does he bark when I let him outside in the backyard? Why does he bark when someone comes to do the door? My dog’s barking drives me nuts! How do I make him stop!. Every time I leave the house, my dog barks. My puppy won’t stop barking when I put him in his crate…and so on.

For Barking That Is Unrelated To Behavior Problems…

What we want to do first, is understand WHY your dog is barking in the first place. Instead of getting frustrated at the first sound of a bark, take a moment to analyze what just happened or what’s going on in his environment at that very moment to stimulate him to bark? Is this something you can change or alter ( whatever just happened to lessen the barking )? If it’s something you do not have control over to alter or change then you will need to come with a plan to deal with it , take control over it , lessen it and or if you’re lucky, stop it.

Some Of The Common Reasons Why Dogs Bark

Noise or someone at the door – This bark is an alarm bark. Your best friend is doing 2 things here, he’s letting you know someone is at the door and warning the intruder ( in his eyes ). You can’t change your dogs natural instinct to warn and protect, but you can train him to stop , calm or lessen his warning sounds by being consistent in giving a firm command verbally “STOP!” and using a hand signal that you’ve created that means “business” to the dog. ( we have a pointed figure that sternly points to the dog with “I mean business look” and it works!). Make him sit and then when he stops and sits, praise him for a job well done. Like anything else, it takes practice and time and most importantly, it takes consistency from all family members EVERY TIME someone is at the door.

Barking at night: Same as above, your pooch is being protective of his pack and his home.

Barking when your kids play: Fido is either expressing how excited he is and that he wants to be included, or he’s voicing his opinion that what ever is going on ( like kids rough housing ) must stop – he see’s at as pack fighting. Using your firm “STOP!” AND The Warning Finger with a Sit command to make him stop. Once he does, even for a second, you should reward the behavior for stopping ( as he stopped not when he starts barking again ). Be consistent during this training . Be on top of his barking with your training and rewarding.

Barking Related To Behavior Problems

Barking when the owners are out or away from the home. First, humans need to remember, we are the pack leader and we say who, we say what, and we say how. – if we are truly the pack leader we gently lead and set boundaries for our furry friend that will lessen behavior issues. So if your dog is barking when you are away from the home excessively ( doesn’t count for new puppies yet ), then you want to examine the amount of freedom of the home you give your dog. If he’s allowed to sleep on the furniture, counter surf, tear your favorite shoes, sleep on the kids furniture, pee in the house caused by improper house training or lack of house training, then chances are you may end up with stressed dog when you leave the pack. To try to fix this, you will not only need to set boundaries in the home for your furry friend, but you will need to work on creating security in your dog that you will come home.
To do this, you will need to set aside a good weekend to get the ball rolling and work in 10 min intervals by going through this training routine:

I firmly believe that when humans leave the home they should not touch, pet, talk, not even look at their dog during the EARLY training periods when you bring home your puppy and are area or crate training. Surely, a new dog or puppy will yelp and bark for your return. ( pulling at your heart strings and even bring tears to your eyes because all you want to do is turn around drown your puppy in reassurance ) STOP! Trust me when I say you’ll have a lifetime of hugs and reassurance to give, but right now, it’s important you set the stage for a happy, well adjusted, calm and secure friend. Reacting to his barking WILL only increase the barking and reward him for it. The puppy will soon learn that NOT reacting to the barking will NOT bring the owner back. Slowly over time, your puppy will be able to go into his area, or crate without a single YELP and simply lie down without a sound. You can give your puppy a pet on the head, a kiss, a cuddle and leave without the big scene. You return, he’s spread out as far as his crate will allow and you can open the door to the crate and he’ll even take his time coming out. Hugs, cuddles and praise. A GOOD well, adjusted happy dog!.

They say that a dogs bark is worse then it’s bite – That statement can be true especially for your neighbors with dogs that are not well socialized, properly trained or by uncaring owners.

Have a question?
Forward your pet related questions to: info@parrotnpetsittingservice.com

Thanks for the question Linda B!

If there is one area I am passionate about, it’s in the area of disease control and safety of all our pets. Some people have known me to speak up and out about situations I’ve come across that put unnecessary risk and danger to animals and speak loudly I will. It’s not with intent to offend the human, but rather educate and speak for the animals who can’t speak for themselves.

Today’s article is about the danger in boarding our pet birds and parrots. It appears to me that lately we are seeing a boom in people starting pet care side businesses of their own, ( whether legally registered or not ) but it’s not this that concerns me. What does concern me is the alarming amount of posts and advertisements I am seeing from people and start ups advertising the boarding of birds. This is deeply concerning and must be spoken about , out loud if only to do nothing more then to educate bird owners who might not know the risks involved. It is my assumption that any person or company that advertises the boarding the boarding of birds WITH THE BOARDING OF OTHER BIRDS without a clear plan described on their websites for bird owners that describe their separate air space and disease control set up . They don’t describe it, because it simply doesn’t exist with homes that board other birds in the same air space.

What are the dangers?

The biggest danger you face when you board a bird or parrot in a home which boards other parrots and birds, whether your bird is the only bird in a home at that moment or not…is a high risk of DISEASE exposure. Unlike our cats and dogs, birds can carry many illnesses and diseases that the owner themselves may not be aware their bird has. There are diseases that can be carried in the feather dust of our pet birds called Beak and Feather Disease which is super highly contagious to other birds exposed. One of the deadliest and most insidious diseases is called Proventricular Dilatation Disease. aka PDD, aka Macaw Wasting Disease. This is a disease much like Aids in a bird. We can’t test for it as there is no test, we can’t cure it and it is fatal. In fact it is one of the most horrible disease I’ve ever witnessed in pet birds. Having been involved in the Avian Community and feeling confident to call myself an expert on bird care and knowledge, I have seen, witnessed and dealt with birds with this disease. It should scare you. So here uninformed owners are…innocently taking their bird to another persons home, who may already have birds, and those birds may have been exposed to many other birds of unknown origin or medical histories and exposures. Your feathered friend could easily become exposed to any of the diseases that any of the other birds who are or have been boarded at a particular home. Is it worth it to you?

Disease and The Bird

Birds do not show illness like we do. Birds will hide their symptoms and appearance of not being well so sneakingly, that even the most diligent bird owner will often mistake a day of fluffing up for a day of being sleepy. By the time you do NOTICE or begin to think your bird is ill…….he has already been ill usually for a while before your bird is not longer able to hide his symptoms. Quite often we see birds “crash” at this point depending on the severity of the illness and or exposure. Why put your bird at risk? Knowingly exposing birds to potential disease is considered neglectful behavior. I have written well meaning letters to these home based small pet businesses explaining the risks of what they are doing by offering boarding options for birds. Not 1 person has ever written me back thanking me for the information of husbandry and care , nor acknowledged the risk involved. They still advertise boarding for birds.

Is the risk worth it to you?

What about bird shows? What about at the Vet Office?

I know many of you will ask those questions. Bird Shows were birds are being brought along to meet other owners and their birds is a big no no to me and not recommended by any avian enthusiast. If you know the risks, and if you have ever seen or lost a bird to disease exposure, you’ll understand and it is a shame people take for granted that it will never happen to them. Birds belong in their own home for care, they are safest in their own home away from other birds who have not been properly quarantined. And Vet Offices? Vet offices take all protocoll disease measures when dealing with birds in the vet office. They have highly concentrated disease control solutions which allow for the destruction of viruses on surfaces , floors and in the air after visiting with a bird. Did you know that all good practicing vet offices will only allow 1 bird in the office for that day if it is known a bird may be ill with a contagious and highly infected disease? Any of the vet office that I have ever dealt with have practiced this safe measure. If they do – why on earth would someone offer bird boarding?

Exception To The Rule

With regards to bird boarding. If a facility specializes in bird boarding ( which is more common in the States ), they will have facilitated separate air spaces for the birds. This means, no two birds share the same air space. This is the only sure way of reducing exposure. Do you know of any facility like this?

Common Diseases in Pet Birds and Parrots

Not sure about Avian Diseases and What is common?

Megabacteria – Avian Gastric Yeast

http://www.wingedwisdom.com/ww54eiv.htm

Respiratory Disorder
Chlamydiosis – Parrot Fever ( very common )
Proventricular Dilitation Disease ( common )
Psittacosis ( Very common )
Beak and Feather Disease ( highly contagious )

Quarantine Measures

What is proper Quarantine Measures for birds? If you ever decide to introduce a new bird into your home with your existing bird it is a well known fact that you MUST quarantine your new bird somewhere with separate air space for a min of 90 days to ensure your new bird is without common illness. It is often during this quarantine time we will see any signs of illness or disease in a bird. The only problem with this, is for diseases such as PDD – Birds can be carriers and live with the disease and not show signs for years. I’ve personally know a few of the birds myself so it’s not far out of our community here in Durham Region. If we must quarantine for diseases can be detectable in that amount of time….You can be rest assured when you are boarding your bird in homes where other birds are, or have been, there is no quarantine measure. Is it still worth the risk? Will you take for granted, cross your fingers and just hope it never happens to you and your bird/s? Do you assume this sort of the thing happens every where else but in your town? Is it still worth the risk?

Your pet bird is safest and happiest in his own home. Having a professional who understands birds and knows what to look for with signs of illness when you’re not home to detect it yourself is the best option for your bird and his or her well being. Unlike dogs, our birds do not fair well with changes and always induce stress when being moved into a new environment – which alone while under stress makes him or her more vulnerable to disease!.

House training your puppy (or grown dog) can be both frustrating and rewarding. The purpose of this article is to attempt to maximize the rewarding portion of the experience. There are several methods to accomplish this goal and I want to take a few minutes outlining the process and benefits of each.

Litter Box Training

Litter Box training your puppy is similar to litter training a kitten. Unfortunately, the kitten is much more “naturally” inclined towards this method. This method is not really practical for a grown dog or a large breed of puppy. Remember that you must have constant contact with your puppy to use this method of training. The litter box will replace the need to take the puppy outside, making it an ideal method to use if you have no yard.

A puppy litter box needs to be large and you might want to line the floor underneath incase of an accident. Keep the box on a hard-floor surface, preferably vinyl or ceramic if possible.

You can fill the box with cat litter and clean it the same way you would a cat litter box. Be sure to clean regularly as puppies typically generate a lot of waste.

Puppies will usually return to a place they have used before, so keeping a little bit of urine in the box will increase the likelihood of its use.

Paper Training

Paper training is similar to litter box training, but leaves you with a new consideration. Somehow, you must teach the puppy to eventually go outside. The ideal way to accomplish this is to be sure to set the paper near the door. This way your puppy will become accustomed to going to the door when he needs to potty.

With this method, you will need to take the puppy to the paper spot whenever you think it is time to potty. Be sure to praise your puppy when he uses the paper to potty. “Good Boy” and a pat on the head will reinforce your positive method.

As the puppy learns to use the paper, move it closer and closer to the door. Eventually you will move the paper outside. Once your puppy learns to go to the door to use the paper outside, you can remove the paper and have him just use the yard.

As with any potty training method, patience and positive reinforcement are important to teach your puppy in the shortest time possible.

Older Dogs

We’ve all heard the old adage “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. Of course this is simply not true. I have house trained many older dogs that were once outside dogs. My daughter is an avid animal lover and seems to regularly volunteer my household as a dog rescue, so we have had our share of experience in this problem.

It’s important to initially determine your dogs frequency of need to go outside. Most dogs will need to relieve themselves soon after eating, so be sure to take them out within a few minutes of finishing a meal.

An older do can be crate trained or command trained. If no one is with the dog for a good share of the day, the crate method is really the only option. Your dog will not soil the crate unless he absolutely cannot hold it. Please do everything possible to avoid putting him in this situation. Be sure he is taken out the crate regularly. He will soon learn the schedule and will not soil his crate.

With the command method, speak the same command each time you take your do outside. I am a believer in single word commands. Say “Potty” each time you go in the yard and praise your dog when he goes. He will soon learn why he is outside. It is best not to play with your dog outside until he learns why he is out.

If you dog has an accident, tell him no in a stern voice and take him immediately to the yard. Be sure to praise him each time he goes outside. He will soon learn where to go.

Regardless of the type or age of your dog and regardless of the method you use, always remember these general rules:

All dogs learn best by positive reinforcement. Your dog WANTS to please you. Be sure to praise him when he does and he will learn quickly.

NEVER hit your pet. He will never forget being mistreated and will quickly become hand shy or mean. Hitting your pet will teach him nothing other than mistrust of all humans.

Your Pet will learn quickly with a routine of consistency and positive reinforcement.

If you follow these general guidelines, your pet will learn quickly, and it will be a positive and rewarding experience for both of you.

by: Douglas Bailey